Cyndi Scarlett in Baghdad

I finally made it to the Land of Ur this week. 

After reporting to the Australian HQ at 0700 and waiting around 12 hours to get on the C120 and a 45 minute flight, we landed in Tallil Iraq - otherwise known as Ur.

The place I was visiting is huge - one of Saddam’s airforce bases in the province of Dhi Qar (pronounced The Car).  My security manager Tom and I arrived at the PRT about 10pm just in time really, to get settled after a long day of  waiting into our “wonderful” rooms for the night.  This PRT is run by the Italians although they no longer have troops in theater.  I guess the Italians don’t have much use for privacy as all bathrooms are coed.  Thankfully I had Tom along and I made him stand guard outside the bathroom as I showered.  Quite outside of his role as security manager but I wasn’t about to shower and change in a room with a row of showers with little more than a curtain for privacy.  Very strange!  No one seemed to think this is a big deal except me.  Strange that!

After my meetings the next day, the US representative to the PRT took Tom and I across the base to the ruins of Ur.   The ruins are “inside the wire” so we didn’t need a security detail along with us.  On the way there, our guide Ken told us that at one time, the Persian Gulf covered most of Ur and that it is surmised that after the flood when the waters receded, the Gulf receded as well.  I’m thinking right… the Persian Gulf came all the way up and actually past Ur?  No way.  Until that is, I got out and started walking around the ruins which if one looks carefully, can find seashells all over the place.  Natually I had to pick some up and bring them home.  As I stood there holding these shells in my hand I realized that I was holding something that had survived 1000’s of years.  Can you imagine?  I can’t. 

The ruins were found and originally excavated by the British in I believe the early 1900’s.  It was almost more than I could comprehend to believe that I was walking around and looking at ruins that were built 1,500 years before the pyramids - and that the father of the human race, Abraham had actually walked the same hills.  At some point, the Euphrates river used to flow right through the ruins making the area at the time extremely lush.  At some point, we don’t know exactly when, the Euphrates shifted course.  One can still see however, the old river bed.  It’s also interesting to see the ancient irrigation systems that had been built.

There is a temple on the site that is still standing - I climbed all 136 steps to the top.  It almost looks like an Aztec ruin.  I’ve always been fascinated by the similarities among antiquities I’ve visited all over the world.  In any event, it was very impressive to see.  That is until I got home and was told by my assistant that Saddam ordered the temple rebuilt in the 1980’s as a tourist attraction!  I guess most if not all the bricks are original but we can’t even be sure of that.  So much for the temple built to the “moon” god.  At least the other ruins have not been touched as far as I am aware.    There were tons of pottery shards all over the ground.  I must admit I was tempted to pick something up but thought better of it.  I felt bad enough picking up a couple of sea shells although there are 1000’s there.  At one point, Ur was a thriving metropolis - up until the reign of Nebuchadnezzar after which for reasons no one quite understands, it fell into ruin.

After some very productive meetings, we got back on the plane yesterday and returned to Baghdad arriving in time to experience the airport being shelled.  That was a bit exciting, I must say!  I’ve never actually been outside watching incoming rockets land.  Thankfully, they arrived a fair distance away in fields and did little damage and didn’t injure anyone.

With all the waiting around, I was introduced to a hotel for coalition generals and other VIPs out at the airport.  I guess my status allows me to stay there.  I told you in an earlier blog that the area out next to the airport was Saddam’s hunting lodge.  Well the hotel is actually where he housed distinguished guests.  It has over 100 rooms - lots of marble - fake chandeliers and stained glass windows and the most awful furniture you can imagine.  It’s sort of this fake gold-leaf french provincial furniture  - really, really ugly cheap stuff.  Come to find out all the USO visitors stay there - senators and congress men and women who are visiting.  And me.  Because my security doesn’t like to travel the airport road after dark, I had a reservation at the hotel for last night in the event we got back after dark.  Luckily, we arrived back well before dark but my security detail wasn’t able to pick me up immediately so I was able to stay warm and relax at the hotel while waiting for my team to come from the IZ to pick me up.   Something interesting to see while I waited.

This part of the world truly is the cradle of civilization.  Despite everything going on, I’m so blessed to be here!

Peace to all

Talk about simple pleasures.  Today, I made my assistant a big, sloppy Wendy’s-like hamburger and watched as he ate it - the first he’d ever eaten in his life.  He pronouced it good and said that most Iraqis think because hamburgers are called “ham” burgers, they think they’re made of ham and therefore would never eat one.  He was so happy to eat something new and different and for me, it was such a pleasure just watching him learn about something new.  I told him that hamburgers seem to be one of America’s biggest exports and also one of it’s most dubious, health-wise.  We had a chat about American culture and food and he said that if McDonald’s ever came to Iraq, they would make a fortune.  In this climate unfortunately, it would be bombed by the extremists before ever opening.  Perhaps not a bad thing!

This afternoon, we were looking at the statistics of schools that have recently been rehabilitated.  I was interested in knowing how many boys schools vs. girls schools have been rehabbed.  Given the current situation, I thought perhaps  girls schooling would not have priority and therefore fewer would have been rehabilitated.  I was glad to find out my thinking was wrong.

While discussing education however, my assistant began telling me that his father and his grandfather were both teachers and that he comes from a long and distinguished line of educators going back to the Ottoman empire.  With tears in his eyes, he told me that the clerics are now influencing what Iraqi children are learning and that he fears my premise that educating girls would decline as time goes on will probably become reality unless something is done to stop these “madmen”. 

I asked him how things are going right now in Baghdad.  He told me that yesterday “only” twenty dead bodies were found.  This down from the usual sixty to one-hundred that are usually found scattered around the city on any given day.   He said the worst thing though, is that while things are getting better, he believes those that have been carrying out this violence are simply waiting for the US to pull out because our Congress has said we won’t stay here…

He along with every Iraqi I’ve talked to are just sick about this.  They don’t want us here forever - but they do want us to stick around long enough to give them time to get things right.   Iraqis are stoic by nature and to see him sitting here with tears running down his cheeks was heartbreaking.

I would ask that you continue to put pressure on the Congress and media to do the right thing.  This situation appears to have become so politicized pretty much it seems along party lines which is very sad to me.  Continue to pray too for wisdom for our leaders both in the States and our military here. 

Peace to all!

I was supposed to fly down to Ur yesterday for a meeting and was really excited about it. Apparently, the place I was going is right near the ruins of Abraham’s original birthplace - well, at least where legend and perhaps even archeologists believe he might have been born. 

I was going to fly with the Australians and was told to report to their HQ out near the airport at 0700.  Off we set, in good time to report in just before dawn.  My PSD waited until the last minute to leave because they really don’t like driving on the airport road in the dark.  NOT because of insurgent activity as much as no one really travels that road after dark or before dawn except the military and anyone else moving on the road can be seen as hostile.  The troops can shoot and ask questions later - with good reason.

Once we checked in, we were told to hang out until 1300 when we’d be transported to the flight line.  We were in a very interesting place actually - it used to be Saddam’s “hunting” palace grounds where he’d bring friends.  It’s not far outside of Baghdad and like I said, hear Baghdad International Airport. 

It’s very interesting to me that almost everywhere around, even in the IZ, there are man- made lakes and canals.  Yesterday, there were bull rushes all along the canals and these large homes and palaces all around with sidewalks down to the water.  I wonder if he had some romanticized notion of his being something like the Egyptian Pharaohs living like I pictured the Pharaoh living when Moses was found in the bull rushes. 

I had the chance to talk to some of our troops while hanging around.  I told them how proud I am of what they are doing.  They were so appreciative.  Once again, they said they don’t hear that very often.  Where is the disconnect I wonder? 

After checking back in, we were taken by bus over to the flight line.  The plane was supposed to be arriving within the hour.  No such luck.  We waited, and waited and waited…

Sitting in the lounge waiting, I took the opportunity to talk to the colonels that were waiting for their flights.   I was really interested to hear what they had to say about what’s going on.   They do not understand why the Congress is debating these “non-binding” resolutions.  They said that this is extremely demoralizing for the troops which I found particularly intersting because I just heard one of our Congressmen saying that they DO support the troops and these debates aren’t demoralizing  - what’s demoralizing is not having the right equipment to do the job - night vision goggles - armored vehicles etc.   How would he know, I wonder?  When was he last out here talking to the troops or their commanders? 

We talked about the challenges we’re facing trying to rebuild Iraq and implementing development programs and projects in the middle of a war zone.  We discussed all kinds of ways the various government departments and agencies over here could better work together.  These were switched on, smart men who really care about the mission and their troops.  I was so heartened as I sat and listened to them talk about what they’re doing and changes that are being made as a result of the President’s plan.  We sat and watched the media say that the American people shouldn’t support the surge because it’s just more troops with no change in plan.  Sort of weird to sit there and watch the various news shows interviewing political people who make all these comments when there I sat with men charged with implementing the plan and to hear their comments in rebuttal. 

Of COURSE things have not gone well here - and of COURSE we are facing huge challenges ahead and are facing huge challenges - but could we please just give this a chance?   There is NO doubt this war was ill conceived - I’ve said that many times before.  This Administration got it SO wrong - I’m sure of that.  I’m also sure that we have so destabilized the Middle East that if we don’t get this right, we are going to be reaping the results of this fiasco for years to come.  We should never have come here - but we did.  I need not get in a rant here.  If you want to hear me rant, go back and read some of my earlier blogs.

Well, at about 1800, the flight was finally cancelled.  The sun had set and I had to get back to the IZ.  I thought of trying to hop on a helo heading back to the IZ with my PSD but the flights were full and we would have had to go “Space A” (Space Available) - and could have been there all night waiting to get a spot.  So, we did what we had to do… called the mobile team to come and get us by road. 

Needless to say, they weren’t happy about that but that’s what they’re here to do.  I made it home by 2100 so tired I didn’t even unpack my suitcase.  My colleagues just laughed.  That’s what one has to do here.  Nothing is ever “easy”.  That said, I’m just so thankful that I had the time to spend the day talking to our troops. I hope I was able to be an encouragement to some of them by letting them know that we are appreciative - we do care and we are keeping them in our prayers.

Blessings to all of you!

The situation in Baghdad according to my local friends appears to be calming down.  They say there is an  obvous increase in troops both American and Iraqi - more road blocks and my assistant said that for the first time ever, he was actually stopped and his car searched, which by the way, he said he welcomed.

Thing is, according to these same Iraqis, there are huge concerns about a couple of things - 1) the American people and the Congress appear to have made it very clear that we don’t have the will to stay here until things are really on the way towards a bright, democratic future.  They get it - at some point, we WILL cut and run….

They believe that the insurgents and particularly Iran know this and are very patient and will bide their time all the while training up new troops and developing even more sophisticated weapons.  The other thing they’re worried about is the numbers of troops that have been asked for in the surge.  They don’t think it’s nearly enough and that while we might get Baghdad somewhat under control, the insurgents and clerical armies will just move operations to other parts of Iraq and then what?

I believe their concerns are valid.  I have to wonder if no one has paid attention to or learned from our past mistakes most recently in Afhganistan…. we went into Afghanistan with the help of the Northern Alliance.  Does anyone know that most if not all of the Northern Alliance were/are made up of the warlords that the Taliban had overthrown for many good reasons years before?  They are evil, extremely dangerous men who rule Afghanistan by sections funded mostly by the production of poppies for heroin.  Anyone who knows, knows that Karzai (the President of Afghanistan) doesn’t have any control of the country outside of Kabul.  We left Afghanistan in part because we needed the troop strength to invade Iraq, didn’t finish the job there and have now left a vacuum where the Taliban are coming back in, better, bigger and stronger than ever.  We’ll eventually have to go back.  Mark my words.  Or, should I say, we should eventually go back if we are to do the right thing by the Afghans but I doubt we’ll have the political will to do so.

Another Apache was shot down yesterday late afternoon.  There is no doubt the insurgents are fighting back the best way they know how.  As the ground becomes more safe, it appears that the skies are now quite vulnerable.  I hate this and admit that I have a somewhat selfish motive as this is the way I get around the country.  I used to not give much thought to jumping on a helo and going from point A to point B.  It’s not that simple anymore.  To do my job, it’s really important that I be able to get around the country.  I hope the skies won’t become so dangerous that we aren’t able to travel readily that way as well.   This is all so tragic.  It makes my heart hurt.

I will tell you that the soldiers on the ground have the will to make this work.  Everyone I’ve talked to both a State and AID and other USG agencies want to see this work.  Normal everyday Iraqis like you and me want to see this work.  The only people it seems to me, that don’t want to see this work - possibly because they believe we’ve already lost are the politicians. 

Please, please write your congress men and women.  I can’t stress this enough.  They DO listen to the American people.  They currently believe because of the big Democratic win in the last elections, that there is a mandate against the war…  well, the American people need to be better educated - and not just by the biased media.  We have to do our part. 

We could get this right - we actually have a chance in fact, I believe with the Iraqis that this is our only chance.  I would ask all of you reading this to do the following:

• Call your congress men and women - in the house and the senate and tell them you expect them to support the war in Iraq - particularly over the long-term both with the increase in troops and support funding.  This includes approving far more troops including enough to control the borders.  Pay attention to the fact that Congress is getting ready to vote on support of the war effort.  Time is critical.  Fire up the emails and phone lines.  I sit here and listen to what’s coming out of our capital and it makes me ill.  These people fly in and out for a couple of days or hours and come back thinking they know everything there is to know.  They don’t know - they don’t live here - they don’t talk to ordinary Iraqis.  They don’t spend hours talking to the troops.  If they did, they wouldn’t have the opinons they are espousing. 
• Write letters to media editors print, radio and TV asking them to start reporting the facts in an unbiased way - it is especially important to contact the media that is not traditionally considered “conservative”  People need to understand the role that Iran has been playing and continues to play in destabilizing Iraq. 
• Educate yourselves about what is going on here - don’t listen to me alone - read, read, read - hear every side and make up your own minds.   THEN DO SOMETHING!
• Most importantly, pray.  Pray for General Patreus (sp) and his staff.  Pray for our troops,  pray for the Iraqi people and most importantly pray for our leaders. 

I know I’m having an about face in my opinions about this.   This comes after much thoughtful and prayerful consideration and after having talked to scores of people here on the ground.

I apologize to those who don’t want to read policial commentary in my blogs - but I have to speak out.  I find it interesting that people like Hillary Clinton are changing their positions… they are probably well informed - they KNOW what’s going on here.  It’s sad to me that Hillary has changed her position and has been willing to sell out for votes.  Of course this comes as no surprise to me as her husband didn’t seem to have much resolve of his own during his presidency but rather led by poll numbers. 

YOu CAN make a difference and I URGE you to do so.

Blessings to all!

I’ve spent the greater part of the last two days in meetings talking about the surge - what it means to programming here - the resources needed and planning a way forward to provide ancillary support for the military surge requested by President Bush.

There were local people in attendance at these meetings and I found their comments the most interesting part of the two days.   I had the opportunity to eat lunch with two of them yesterday giving me an opportunity to talk more in depth about their views and that of their fellow Iraqis.

Without exception, the Iraqis said that the 90 - 95% of population who simply want peace - who do not participate in the insurgent and sectarian violence and who feel quite helpless in light of what is currently happening to them, are hopeful that with this surge, the situation here will finally be brought under control.  They welcome the surge in troops as they don’t trust their government, the armed forces or their police force.  That’s a sad commentary on the current political environment here however, one has to wonder yet again, why this is not being reported by the media in the US.

We discussed today the possiblity that in fact, this surge might not happen - or at least not be implemented as requested by the leadership of the armed forces because of the nine bills that have been presented in Congress to stop President Bush from as they see it, escalating the war - and what would happen in the country if this happens. Without exception, the Iraqis said if the surge is not allowed to go forward,  Iraq is going to slip into utter chaos the likes of which we haven’t begun to see here and that this is the last, best hope for Iraq. That’s rather frightening.

I admit I vascilate back and forth having not agreed with our invasion of Iraq - and being so disturbed by the death and maiming of 1,000s of our troops, not to mention local Iraqis.  On one hand, I think we should just up and leave. On the other, I realize we brought this mess on ourselves for reasons I’ve written about in previous blogs and we should have the courage to stay the course and help Iraqis bring stability to their country.  I guess after the past couple of days, I firmly believe that we simply have to push to support this surge.

I’d encourage you all to write your congress men and women and tell them to support this surge.   Painful as it is, I don’t see any other way forward.  We know that for the most part, the media shapes the opinions of the American public by what they choose to cover.  After talking to numerous Iraqis in the past three weeks - and since coming here - and hearing their views - almost 100% of whom want us here - want the violence to stop - want to live in peace and do not have a fight to pick with the Americans we really do need to continue putting the pressure on the Iraqi government - and our own congress to do the right thing.  We should also start putting pressure on the media to provide more balanced coverage. 

I can feel a rant coming on so I’ll stop.  What’s going on in Congress is a disgrace.  What’s gone on in Congress is a disgrace.  How the media is covering this war is a disgrace…

I urge you to speak out. 

Blessings to all!

As is my habit, I’m an early riser so I can get a jump on my day while things are quiet.

In the past 10 minutes, I’ve heard three major explosions - all coming from the RZ - but large enough to be signficantly heard from where I’m sitting.

This just makes my heart ache.  This is the busiest time of the morning here - about 0600 - people are up and about going to the market - making their way to work - lining up at checkpoints all over the city to come into the IZ.  They can often spend hours at the checkpoints as everyone is searched coming into the IZ.

I know that in the past 20 minutes people have been killed and lives have been forever changed.

Please pray for  the people of Iraq.  Most just want peace and are pushed and pulled between a number of different groups none of which have the ordinary people of Iraq’s best interest at heart.

This is such a desparate situation.   Another large explosion just as I’ve been sitting here writing this.  This one close enough to shake the villa a little. 

Your prayers are appreciated.

Blessings to all

I struggle sometimes in understanding why God answers some prayers and seemingly not others - why some suffer - and others don’t.

I heard this week about a childhood friend who has been battling breast cancer for years who now has another reoccurence - one of many.  She’s a wonderful  wife and mother - her precious children and family have such faith for her healing.  Many have prayed for her - I have prayed many times for her. 

I find myself questioning this so much - and even being disappointed in God - although I know this isn’t right.  I know that I’m alive today because of the prayers of hundreds of people all over the world.  I have no doubt that no less people have prayed for Cynda - in faith, and believing for her healing.  I believe in prayer. I know that God answers prayer.  I admit I don’t understand this.

I know that now we see through a glass darkly.  I’m looking forward to the day that all will be revealed and I will have answers to some of life’s most troubling questions.

After my recovery, I heard from people all over who had prayed for me - people I don’t know.  People participating in Bible studies - church congregations - friends of friends of friends.  All cared enough to pray consistently for me.  I had no idea all of this was going on.  I didn’t know much of anything that was going on.  But God heard those prayers and I’m alive today because them.  People say I was a real fighter.  I don’t remember it that way.  One of my clearest memories during my illness was telling my parents I was tired of the struggle and wanted to go.  But God had a different plan.  I admit I think about this often and wonder why I’m alive and what I can do each day to make my life count for something.

I would ask that everyone reading this pray for Cynda and her family.  Please have your friends pray as well.  We need to make this a matter of urgent prayer.  Please pray for God’s healing touch on her life. Please pray for her strength as she goes through yet another round of treatment.  Please pray for her children.  Her husband - and her parents.

Blessings to everyone!